Chiang Mai (+Photos)
Posted on July 18, 2007
After a surprisingly painless and efficient day of air travel, we arrived in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s ancient capitol and second largest city. Far from being a beachy paradise, Chiang Mai is old world all the way - a walled city, over 300 temples or “wats”, and a moat!
Our stay here has been largely idyllic and the credit goes in no small part to our B&B, Baan Orapin, a gracious and as one guide put it, “delightful” place. http://www.baanorapin.com/ We splurged a bit at $45/per night (ha!) but you can see it is worth it. Right now I’m sitting at a small writing table in our living room looking through the intricately carved screen surrounding our private porch to the zen garden with koi stream beyond. And it has a pool! And large and delicious breakfast included. Obviously I can’t say enough about this place.
Chiang Mai itself is also charming with a modern pace and outlook but with intense pride in its distinguished past. The old town is a fascinating warren of small lanes or “sois” with garden bars, guest houses, and craft shops. There is also a gigantic night market with acres of stalls selling everything from handcrafted silver headdresses to t-shirts that you would find in a Haight street head shop. (Puma/Tuna shirt - remember, SY??) Those of you who know me can imagine how hard it’s been to leave all of the intriguing items behind - especially the handbags! Maya assures me it’s even better in Bali though, so I’m holding out for that! 
Chiang Mai also boasts more temples/wats than Bangkok despite being a fraction of the size. These structures are simply amazing to the Western eye, even one that has taken in some of the more ornate Roman Catholic cathedrals in Europe. Gold and detail are in every nook and cranny, yet balance reigns over all.
In fact that thought kind of sums up my impression of SE Asia so far; everything is more, more, more - activity, noise, people, spice in the food, scooter traffic - and yet there is a peacefulness underlying it all.
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Haha, Gregor looks sweaty
For the record, the SARONG shopping is better in Bali. Everything else is better in Chiang Mai. You’ll regret it if you don’t get some salad tongs or something!
I’d love to buy a ton, but they tell me shipping is extremely expensive and we can’t tote much on our backs. I guess I’ll have to wait for Vietnam!
Puma/Tuna…classic. You’ll regret not getting one of those there, you can buy sarongs everywhere. Hehe.
Oh, and that truck with the bike in the back is bitchin’!
Just talking about you two yesterday with CS at some faux-swanky bar downtown. Glad to see you’re, you know, having fun while I’m, you know, not. The lamps are gorgeous. Make sure Gregor showers.
OOOH, the handbags DO look purdy!
I still wear a tee shirt which I bought in Bali about 12 years ago. I bought it in Ubud.